Friday, February 26, 2010


I have a client in the UK. We have been going back and for over email for a while and it has been difficult to come up with the perfect design. The client is looking for a contemporary half bezel low-set diamond on light half round band, along with an etoile pink and white diamond wedding band that sits flush to the engagement ring. (What a mouth full!) This would normally be the easiest of requests, except for the fact that the diamond is 3cts.

The reason a diamond of that size poses issues is because it is LARGE. A 3ct round diamond is 9mm wide by 5.5mm tall. Normally a stone that size would be set in an intricate/classic/antique setting with lots of metal and supports. And to put that on a simple 2-3mm band is tough... it lacks stability. And it would need to be set very high for the bezel not to bulge out of the side of the band.

The first attempt was close, but not quite there...

The client felt the stone was set too high (tall) for her taste and "v" for the half bezel was too small. But with some tweaking, it found the perfect compromise (the 2nd side view, on the right)...

What we are doing is adding width to the band (4mm total) to give allowance for the stone to sit lower. Then we added a little more material to the area where the bezel meets the shank to add stability to the setting. And, we opened up the "v" to let more light into the setting.

Now, I know you are thinking that this still seems like an easy project. But when dealing with such a large stone for a small size (size 6) it becomes difficult to keep the proportions in check. It's all about structure with a project like this.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

How to Compliment a Calla Lily?

Remember the Calla Lily Engagement Ring?

Now I need to make a complimentary men's wedding band. Something a bit funky and something to tie them both together, but still masculine. So this is my first attempt...

A concave ring ring (modern / little bit of funk) with a wraparound leaf pattern (to mimic the wrapping of the band of the engagement ring.) The leaf would be high polished and slightly raised with the veins engraved in, and the background would have a texture.

Another idea is to use a Calla Lily leaf in the design...

But I'm not sure we are there yet. Still thinking thinking thinking.

Friday, February 19, 2010

Round vs Finger vs Square

Fingers aren't round. Because of this, rings don't just come round.

Your fingers are actually trapezoids. Wide/flat bottom surface, 2 tapered walls, and a narrow/flat top surface. Okay, okay, when you look at your finger it doesn't really look like a trapezoid... but it doesn't really look like a circle either, does it? So, for the fact that all fingers are different, there are different shaped rings. Of course the most common is round. The next is a finger shaped ring. And finally, a soft square.

Now why am I discussing this? A client asked me the difference between the ring shapes and why you would use them. There are different reasons for each one. The main reason would be for comfort. The next reason would be to keep a ring for rotating. And finally, just because it's pretty damn cool looking.

Here are a few different basic sketches for various shaped rings.

Monday, February 01, 2010

Elegantly Green Wedding Showcase

Back from my honeymoon... back to reality... back to work! And one of my first projects for this new business year is the Elegantly Green Wedding Showcase.

This is an eco-chic boutique wedding expo on Valentine's Day at the Boston Hyatt. It will feature couture wedding gowns in sustainable fabrics, eco friendly florists and photographers and catering, green transportation, and jewelers... LIKE ME!

So, if you are planning a wedding, come and join us! If you want a discount at the door, let me know and I will send you a discount code! Take a peek at the site... and pass the info onto any brides-to-be!
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